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https://frozenpoint.github.io/cooling_vest/

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Liquid Cooling Vest

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Project maintained by frozenpoint Hosted on GitHub Pages — Theme by mattgraham
Liquid Cooling Vest

https://frozenpoint.github.io/coolin...both_sides.jpg
Background

This project spawned from a problem i have (well, a lot of problems). Notably:

• I live in Florida (a wretched humid swamp filled with sadness and alligators)
• I'm a really sweaty guy (show me a picture of sunshine and I'll soak my shirt through)
• I ride a motorcycle and wear full gear (most of which is leather) year round

This typically means I'm hot, sweaty and disgusting whenever I go anyplace on my bike. To a degree, I've learned to live with this. However, it isn't something that you can every really get used to. The vast majority of people don't wear much gear around here because of the heat. I'd rather sweat than bleed so that's what I do...a lot.
I've tried towels that have a ton of surface area that cool off if you wave them around. These work great in places that aren't Florida since they rely on evaporative cooling. However, the apocalyptic levels of humidity here negate any evaporative cooling and make it so these just get you wet in addition to being hot.
I've contemplated textile/mesh gear but they don't protect as well as leather and it won't matter at a stop light where my engine fans blast me with with hot air with the sun blasts me from the top and the asphalt bakes me from the bottom.
Until now, I have just suffered through on my bike and made most of my traffic decisions based on whether I keep moving or have to wait at a light. However, I recently read a book that made me think about a better way (as an aside, the book was Seveneves by Neal Stephenson). In the book, the author waxes lyrical about the Orlan space suit, specifically it's cooling undergarment that removes the wearer's body heat and sinks it into space by circulating a coolant through a series of small flexible tubes. Since roughly 25 times more effective at stealing your body heat by conduction that air, space agencies use it to remove body heat the most effective way possible from astronauts.
I thought it'd be a cool idea to circulate cold water the same way in my motorcycle jacket. So, I did a little research to see if anyone had this idea already and surely enough, there are commercial products based on the same concept.
I'm certainly not creating anything new or revolutionary. I would have simply purchased one and saved myself the effort if they weren't asking $998 USD for a comparable product to the one I put together in a few weeks over nights and weekends. This project is definitely not meant to compete with commercial products, I'm simply sharing my code, parts and ideas in case anyone else want's to build something similar.
Layout

The complete unit is comprised of two major components: the vest and the "backpack."
The vest has 4 cooling circuits (small tubes), a manifold connector for those circuits and a waterproof temperature sensor on one of the return circuit lines to monitor the water temperature of the vest.
The backpack is a modified hydration backpack where the normal drinking line goes to a self priming diaphragm pump and which pushes ice-water through the vest.
I 3D printed all the fittings and parts from ABS plastic and have included the STL files as well as original Solidworks 2013 parts/assemblies in the repository with my controller firmware so others can modify and/or print them as well.
If you don't have a 3D printer, don't give up. Most of what I made can be created with epoxy and a drill or fittings from the hardware store. Nothing here is essential to be 3D printed, it's just what I have available and works for me.
Vest

https://frozenpoint.github.io/coolin...615_171501.jpg
The vest is very nearly a stock hunting/sport mesh vest. The one I used is linked in the Parts List section below. The make/model really doesn't matter that much. Mesh is good since it's lightweight and fits under a motorcycle jacket.
The important part of the vest is really the tubes. I used 2 25ft packs of silicone aquarium air line tubing. I cut each 25ft length in half and sewed it in the 4 quadrants of the vest. I kept each circuit the same length, even though some have to travel further away from the vest entry point at the left rear bottom to keep the flow resistance as equal as possible so I didn't end up with a "lazy" circuit.
I started each circuit at the same place on the vest with both ends sticking out so I was really was just sewing a long twisted loop onto the vest.
On one of the circuits, I also sewed a DS18B20 waterproof temperature sensor to the return end of the tube to measure the water temperature in the line after my body had heated it up. The sensor is sewed in place, taped with pipe insulation tape and sewed over with black fabric to keep the tape in place and provide an abrasion shield from any rubbing my the wearer or the outer jacket. The insulation tape is so it is measuring the tube rather than my jacket or skin temperature (mostly). The temperature sensor terminates in a MTA156 male 2-pin connector glued to the umbilical manifold connector (described below).
The Umbilical (Vest Side)

To allow disconnecting the vest from the rest of the unit, the umbilical connector is a two piece unit with a locking pin (in my case, just a sanded stainless #6 machine screw).
Here is a picture of the manifold side of the connector: https://frozenpoint.github.io/coolin...billical_2.JPG
The cut-out is where the male MTA connector is glued for the 1-Wire bus that hosts the vest temperature sensor. The part of the far right of the picture is a strain relief and clamp for the cooling tubes that slides over the 8 hose barbs (with tubes on) to prevent accidentally breaking off one of the barbs (they're 3D printed ABS which, at this size is fairly fragile). This strain relief is held in place by friction (the tubes are pretty squishy).
The umbillical parts (well, the bits that see water) are sealed by acetone smoothing to make them waterproof and printed with 100% infill to make them as waterproof as possible before the smoothing).

Backpack

The "backpack" is basically a modified hydration pack with a pump, an Arduino Pro Mini and a battery strapped to it.
The Hydration Pack

The pack I chose (see parts list below) was not a wise choice. The opening for adding ice/water is not very large and isn't as good as something like a Camelbak. I chose it because it was cheap and, at the time, I wasn't sure if this project would work so I was limiting my investment.
Regardless, there are 3 modifications I made to the hydration pack:

1. I modified the filler cap to add a swivel hose barb fitting for the return water line (see picture below). https://frozenpoint.github.io/coolin...611_114607.jpg
2. I melted a hole in the insulated carrier to bring the cold water feed line (the drinking tube) out to the back of the pack and installed a 3D printed grommet there. https://frozenpoint.github.io/coolin...ge_fitting.JPG
3. I added a second DS18B20 temperature sensor to the water bladder to monitor the reservoir water/ice temperature (so the Arduino can beep angrily when the water is too hot to be useful for cooling).

The Pump Unit

https://frozenpoint.github.io/coolin...sing_front.JPG https://frozenpoint.github.io/coolin...using_back.JPG
The pump sits in a 3D printed housing with an Arduino and the supporting circuitry. The "supporting circuitry" is really just a MOSFET to turn the pump on and off and some resistors for measuring battery voltage and running the 1-Wire bus for the temperature sensors.
The pump (see Parts List below) comes with a set of nice rubber vibration damping mounts so I printed a housing that has the same hole pattern and is simply held together with sheet metal screws (#6 I think, just what I had laying around).
The housing has a little section for the Arduino and the perf board I put it on, a slot in the bottom for the water lines and some holes in the top for the battery connector pigtail and the control box wire (which is just another DS18B20 that I stole the wire from).
The Control Box

https://frozenpoint.github.io/coolin...l_box_high.JPG https://frozenpoint.github.io/coolin...ol_box_low.JPG
The control box was designed to thread onto the webbing of the hydration pack shoulder straps. It's only components are a waterproof button (see Parts List below) and a peizo buzzer. I didn't add anything visual since it's meant to be operated wearing a helmet and you can't really look at your shoulder (where the box sits) with one on.
The two halves of the control box are held together with a #4 machine screw and captive nut in the opposite side. The communication with the Arduino is all in beeps and is surprisingly intuitive. Like most things, holding the button for a long time turns the unit "off" (it actually puts the Arduino in sleep mode and it draws only about 1.5mA). More details about this are in the firmware code.
This control strategy is adopted from dive computers that only have a single button and not much in the way of display real-estate.
Arduino Controller

https://frozenpoint.github.io/coolin...605_135110.jpg
The reason for the Arduino and sensors instead of something simply "on or off" like the Veskimo linked earlier is related to the nature of the problem. If we just pump all the ice water around continuously, we would get the wearer really cold and uncomfortable. We'd also burn through our ice supply very quickly. The Veskimo people seem to sell some sort of add-on timer switch to let the user set a duty cycle for their unit. I'm a bit lazier and don't like fiddling with things while I ride, so I use the Arduino as a PD controller (a PID controller without the "I" bit) to keep the return water line at 1 of 5 temperature settings (adjustable via the control box button).
It took me a while to understand the control problem since it isn't like the PID control of a robot motor. The system reacts very fast (you can chill the crap out of the vest in under 10 seconds), but the dead time of the temperature sensor is huge (like 15 seconds to register any change at all in temperature) so my initial tuning had crazy overshoot problems and the integral wind-up that happens when you have an error for a long time that makes your controller go crazy after you hit your set-point.
What eventually helped me get things fixed was de-tuning my PID controller to have a 10 second update interval (I was initially updating ever 2), removing the "I" portion and having a very strong "D" coefficient that basically stops all cooling if we go down .4 degrees F or more since the last update because we know we're probably going to coast at least 5 more degrees with any cooling effort at all and bumps us with a good blast as soon as we start increasing in temperature at all since the wearer is probably going to start feeling hot in only a few seconds since we're so far behind the curve.
Here is a graph from my final controller: https://frozenpoint.github.io/coolin...emperature.png
You can see it overshoots a bit, but I kept it this way so it approaches the set point from the colder side of things (I'd rather be too cool waiting for it to settle rather than baking in my jacket) but it holds the temperature surprisingly well after it hits the set-point. Most importantly, it feels like it's holding the set-point correctly wearing the vest. It feels like outdoor air conditioning rather than a vest that gets too hot or too cold and it does this with sub-par hardware (the whole reason for these type of controllers to begin with).
The Umbilical

The "umbilical" is really just two tubes and an electrical line wrapped in insulation tape and covered with braided sheathing. The unit terminates at the vest connector as seen here: https://frozenpoint.github.io/coolin...billical_1.JPG
The left side of the connector (the leftmost component in the picture above) has two hose barbs to accept the cold water feed and return lines and has two o-ring sealed protrusions on the opposite side that mate with the manifold side of the connector to feed the vest cooling circuits. There is a cut-out for the female MTA156 2-pin connector that is at the end of the electrical line.
The big "U-shaped" part on the top is a clip that has a hole for a #6 machine screw which pins the umbilical connector in place so it doesn't accidentally come apart while in use but allows the vest to be separated for maintenance if needed.
I 3D printed little clips to keep the tubes and electrical cable aligned and slightly separated underneath the insulation tape. These aren't strictly necessary but made it easier to assemble (shown below):
https://frozenpoint.github.io/coolin...611_114554.jpg
Parts List (possibly not complete)

Tools Required

• Needle and Thread (heavy duty polyester is preferred)
• Soldering Iron (for assembling board)
• Acetone (for smoothing/sealing water fittings)
• Silicone Grease for lubricating O-rings
• Drill (hand or drill press, doesn't matter)

Electronics Components

• Arduino Pro Mini (5V)
• FQP30N06L (N-Channel MOSFET)
• Small Peizo Buzzer
• 1N4004 Diode (or similar for free-wheel diode)
• 4.7K resistor (for 1-Wire bus parasitic power)
• 3x10K Resistors for voltage divider and MOSFET pull-down
• DS18B20 Waterproof Temperature Sensors

Everything Else

• DC Power Pigtail 5.5mm x 2.5mm
• Mesh Hunting/Sport Vest
• Waterproof metal Button
• Hydration Pack
• 8.4V Waterproof Battery Pack
• 12V Diaphragm Pump
• 1" Braided Sleeving
• 1/2" Braided Sleeving
• 2 x Silicone Air Tubing
• #6 x 1.5" Machine screw and nut (acts as lock pin for Umbillical fitting)
• Pipe insulation tape (I used 1/4" by 2")

Assembly

TBD. I'll do a write-up on assembly procedure if there is enough interest in it, for now, this page exists to share the high-level ideas and firmware so others might be able to build on what I made and improve it.

אלבום תמונות באיכות נמוכה שהצלתי מגוגל קאש:
http://imgur.com/a/gLPWz

קוד המקור של עמוד הבלוג שלו
http://pastebin.com/9V8ja0t6

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