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Meirson
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I sat down a couple of times this weekend and started to participate in this thread. There is so much to write down and I figured it wouldn't be productive to state my opinions. I see that others have posted some things here and I'm glad of that. I agree with what has been said 100 percent. Using tire wear and what you think might be causing that wear should be the way to set up your suspension. In my experience, tire wear displays more of how the rider rides his/her bike than how the suspension is set up. Also, there is no perfect suspension setup for all conditions.*
When I do a baseline setup on a motorcycle there are two things I believe to be the most important since they are the basis for everything that follows. Those two things are sag and then front to rear balance. Some suspension tuners look only at dynamic or "rider aboard" sag but they do not compare those numbers with static sag to determine if they truely have the right springs under them. There are some variables to consider when looking at your sag numbers also.*
It's possible to set up a bike with the wrong springs so the dynamic sag numbers are inside the ballpark. However, when you set up a bike based solely on dynamic sag, you might find your static sag numbers are totally wacked out. Here's an example - you might increase spring preload on the fork springs and shock spring so your dynamic sag numbers are somewhere between 35 and 40mm. You might think that is ok. Then, you measure your static sag numbers and find you have 12mm of static sag in the forks and 0 (zero) static sag out back on the shock. This is a classic indication of over-preloaded the front and rear springs which may cause the suspension to "top-out" too hard during a series of quick "S" turns. This isn't good. The bike might also have poor front to rear balance. Also not good for optimum handlng.
So with suspension setup, everything really starts with getting the proper springs under you. Once that mission is accomplished, you can then sort out damping adjustments.
Generally with a revalved and resprung set of forks, I like to set the compression damping first. I will start with a middle setting on the compression adjuster and leave it like that until I ride the bike over my "test" road. After a few test rides, I might turn the compression adjuster in for less movement of the forks over bad sections of road, or I might turn the adjuster out to soften the forks to improve bump compliance. Compression damping adjustments are based more on rider preferences and the typical road surface conditions a rider might see during his daily riding. I personally do not believe in using compression damping to control front fork dive. You can do that if you want, but you might find your bump compliance is suffering simply because you have tried to eliminate or reduce fork dive by using the compression adjuster. The correct solution might be to go with stiffer fork springs.
I like to set the rebound damping by bouncing the front forks while observing how they function when they are extending. For a race-bike at the track, we do not like to see the forks extend so quickly that they overshoot and pass their at rest position and then settle back down a substantial amount. We want the forks to extend moderately quickly but not pass their at rest position. Depending on the track or the rider, the forks might be best set so they ever so slightly pass their at rest position and then settle a couple of mm. This might be ok for that rider at some tracks.*
For riding on the street, forks that are set up like the racetrack settings may not work as well as they possibly could because the extra rebound damping would cause the forks to extend too slowly for street use. The bike may ride fairly well and the rider may really like that extra bit of control during spirited riding, but the front tire may start wearing in an odd way. A compromise needs to be made. The cause of the odd wear is caused by a combination of riding style and widely varied road surface conditions. Guys that tend to ride at a very elevated pace on the street may find they need the extra control provided by more rebound damping. The solution??? Compromise with your riding style and possibly the rebound damping so the forks respond slightly quicker during the majority of your aggressive riding.
Trail braking to the apex and then rolling on the throttle from the apex to the corner exit might cause your front and rear tires to scallop around the tread grooves. Changing rebound damping may reduce these traits slightly but changing your riding habits could nearly eliminate this odd wear.*
Mark and I had a discussion about this very same thing a couple of weeks ago. His solution and I agree with him is to maximize braking*
but minimize it while leaned over. This includes engine braking. I asked him how he did that and he described how he maintained some throttle input while leaned over and while braking at the same time. Most of his hardest braking was done before the bike was leaned over. A lot of this technique*
boils down to corner speed selection and knowing how much grip your tires ultimately have while leaned over.*
For the rear shock, compression damping adjustment is made for bump compliance and "squat" during hard acceleration and rebound damping is used for the feeling of wheel control after the bump. Generally, use enough rebound damping so the back suspension will extend quickly enough yet not feel loose or floaty. Sometimes, as odd as it may sound, you can add compression damping to prevent the shock from overstroking which compresses the spring further into its stiffer or hasher zone. Depending on the bumps you are crossing over, this might be a better solution vs softening the compression adjustment. Using too much rebound damping will prevent the shock from extending quickly enough to be ready for the next bump. It could also have the shock operating much of the time in the stiffer zone of the compressed spring. It will actually make the shock feel like the spring is far too stiff. Balancing the compression and rebound damping on the shock is sometimes the most difficult thing for the novice to do while adjusting the suspension.
Now, with all of this said, I'm sure others have more to add. Mr "Tire Killer" Mark Byrd has things to share I'm sure...*
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